HOW TO BUY A SNOWBOARD
Buying a Snowboard isn't as easy as it used to be. There are about 50-100 different Snowboard companies out there competing for your hard earned cash, (or your parents). With so many great choices, the snowboarder of today needs to be informed, so we put this segment together in hopes that How to Buy a Snowboard will be an exciting and pleasurable experience.There are many different types of snowboards available today:
• Freeride boards
• Freestyle boards
• Backcountry boards
• Park/Pipe boards
• Kids’ boards
• Women’s boards
• Boardercross boards
• Signature series boards
Snowboard buying requires a few important questions to be answered, but you’ll be stoked to know that you already have the answers.Your weight, height, foot size and riding style are the main factors that will define the appropriate stiffness, height, width and shape of the board you’ll buy. You will need to know your riding ability:
• Beginner- first time, newbie, taking a lesson, snowboarded 1-3 times.
• Intermediate- board 3-5 times a year, ride fakie, catch some air, turns no problem.
• Advanced- you know who you are!
The riding style you prefer will also help determine the type of board you should buy. The three most common riding styles are:
Freeride or All Mountain Riding Style
This is the soul of snowboarding. Freeriding is all about using the mountain's natural undulations and obstacles to get air and do tricks, or just simply cruise around. While an overused term in snowboarding, freeride is still the best way to describe the majority of snowboarders and soon-to-be snowboarders. As it suggests, freeride describes a user who intends to utilize the whole mountain. These riders enjoy everything about snowboarding: the amazing feel of carving a turn on freshly groomed slopes, the sense of flight obtained at lift-off from the big-air jump, the creativity that can only be understood descending the half-pipe, and the feel of freedom one gets floating in fresh powder. Utopia is doing this in backcountry powder snow where it is a truly spiritual experience; however it is still unimaginably good fun on groomed runs.
FreeRide/All Mountain Board Characteristics
The most popular type of board, accounting for half of all snowboard sales. This is the go-anywhere, do-anything board that bridges the gap between freestyle riding and alpine carving. Both ends of the board are turned up for riding switch (can lead with either foot), floating through powder and performing freestyle maneuvers. These boards are usually soft and maneuverable enough for beginners, but stiff enough to hold a fast turn in hard snow. Not as stable as a carving board, not as agile as a freestyle board. This board is designed for boarders who want to ride the whole mountain including the park and pipe.
Freeride boards can be found at every price point from all snowboard manufacturers Each board has a unique characteristic which is a derivative of its: construction technique and materials, shape, flex pattern, size, and graphics For the most part, there isn't a "bad" board on the market. Even the least expensive board produced today can out-perform the "signature" series boards of just 5 years ago This is the best type of board to learn on and can be used anywhere on the mountain.
Freestyle or Technical Riding Style
This style is popular among the younger snowboarders. It includes trick riding comprised of jumps, spins, grabs, jibbing, rail sliding, riding backwards and generally tearing it up. Technical freestyle riding is usually found in the snowpark section of the mountain, or near the halfpipe. Many of today's technical freestyle riders come to snowboarding with experience as a skateboarder, in-line skater, BMX, or other action sports background. While the equipment specific to this type of rider excels in park and pipe riding, it can also be very versatile across the whole mountain at less than full-speed.
Freestyle/Technical Board Characteristics
Freestyle boards are Shorter, lighter and softer in flex, this makes them more maneuverable. This characteristic makes it the board of choice for a beginner. These boards are built for performing tricks; spins, airs and riding fakie (backward). Freestyle boards are very responsive; the soft flex makes them forgiving and easy to turn, which also makes these good beginner's boards. They have limited edge grip and stability; and are not good for carving turns or cruising fast. Most technical freestyle snowboards are "signature" series boards These boards are made to the specifications of a pro rider Usually found at the highest price points, "signature" series boards combine some of the most attractive graphics with the latest in hi-tech manufacturing. Extremely light board weight is the most common characteristic of these boards.
Alpine or Carve Style
This type of riding style is one of the fastest growing segments within the snowboarding world. Commonly referred to as "cross-over," a majority of these riders were once skiers. A freecarve rider enjoys the full-length and width a mountain has to offer, continually transitioning from one turn to the next. More a European discipline by riders crossing over from skiing, alpine riding is all about high speed and hard turning on groomed runs. Expert skiers who take up snowboarding tend to like the performance of carving boards, although stiffer flex and narrower width can make them unforgiving for beginners. These types of riders are easily picked out of the crowd. They are always seen laying a trench in the snow with each turn. These riders "use" a snowboards edge like no other rider. Using powerful body movements and gravity as their friend, alpine riders enjoy the sport only when they are connected to the snow.
Carving boards/Alpine board Characteristics
Carving boards are narrow, stiff boards designed for fast direction changes. Carving, Alpine or race boards as they can be called are narrower than freestyle or freeriding boards. Carving boards permit quick edge changes and have excellent high-speed superior edge-holding power on hard snow and good stability for speed, but are awkward in spins and tight turns. Freecarve boards are most often found at the higher price points. They are almost always constructed with the same materials as the technical freeride boards, but configured so that the board is more suitable for higher speeds and cleaner carved turns. Also, these boards tend to be longer and are usually preferred for a great day of fresh unridden powder. These boards are long, narrow, stiff, and flashy. They are made for serious downhill boarders because they are for riding and carving downhill, they are stiffer and narrower than other types of boards. Alpine/Race boards are not made for doing tricks.
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After you have decided on your ability and riding style we can move on to the most important board buying decisions: Board length and width. This is not only a function of your height but also your weight.
Board Length - First off and most important, Length is usually measured in centimeters and often abbreviated to just the last two digits. The length is measured from the tip of the nose to the end of the tail. Some companies measure overall length a bit differently, some will add the curvature from the tip to the tail, some measure as the crow flies. Marketing is at work here and companies will do almost anything to try and be different and sell it as the new or cutting edge way to measure a board. Some companies may have a board that measures 157 cm, but market it as a 158, because it fits their profile better or they want to keep things even. Most importantly know that the right board for you should stand somewhere between your chin and your nose.
To find the correct length for you, start by comparing it to your height. When holding the board on its end, a short board will come up somewhere between your collar bones and chin. Because shorter boards are easier to maneuver, they are great to learn on and are preferred by riders who do a lot of trick, park and pipe riding.
A medium length board standing on end will come up between your chin and eyebrows. This length is for the all around intermediate to advanced rider who may ride a variety of terrain, including parks and steeps.
Long boards go from the forehead to several inches over the top of the head. Long boards are for high-speed carving, deep powder and big mountain terrain.
Riders who are heavy for their height can stay within these guidelines, but should look for boards that have a stiffer flex. Lighter riders will need boards with a softer flex. Also, remember that these are general guidelines to get you started; personal preference can also strongly sway your decision of what length board to buy.
Board Width - While board length has some room for personal preference, board width is directly tied to your foot size. Riders with small feet need narrow boards; likewise, riders with big feet need wide boards.
Board width is measured in either centimeters or millimeters and can be found in the board's specifications under waist width (usually on the tag or in the manufacturer's catalog or Web site).
The best way to find the correct board width is to stand on a board that is flat on the ground. Strap or step into your bindings, or place your feet exactly how you would have them when you ride. (This is important because the more angle you ride with, the less your foot will span across the width of the board.)
When standing in riding position, your boots should be flush or slightly over the edges of the snowboard. If your toes and heels don't come close to the edge, you won't be able to apply proper pressure to your edges during a turn. If, on the other hand, your feet hang too far over the edges of the board, your toes may catch in the snow while turning and send you reeling. This phenomenon is sometimes referred to as "toe drag", and it is a drag.
Your Weight - A snowboard acts like a leaf spring, in that it has no clue how tall the person standing on it is, but it does know their weight. When a heavy rider purchases a board that is too short, the board will have a tendency to "wash out" or perform poorly, especially at higher speeds. A lighter person on a longer board will usually have problems controlling their board and initiating turns.
Riders who are heavy should look for boards that have a stiffer flex. Lighter riders will need boards with a softer flex. Also, remember that these are general guidelines to get you started; personal preference can also strongly sway your decision of what length board to buy.
BOARD ANATOMY:
Base - Bottom side of the snowboard, the part of the board that touches the snow. Snowboard bases are made in one of two ways: sintered or extruded. A sintered base is superior — it's more durable, faster and holds wax better than an extruded base. It's also more expensive and difficult to repair. If you're looking for high performance, go with a sintered base; for a board on a budget, an extruded model will do.
Camber - The amount of space beneath the center of a snowboard when it lays on a flat surface and its weight rests on the tip and tail. This is the gentle arch the board makes when you rest it on a flat surface. It's closely related to flex: the higher the camber, the more pressure the board puts at the nose and tail. A Flat camber indicates a board may spin easily, which can be good for certain freestyle moves. In a used board, however, it may also be a sign that the board is worn out. In most new boards you want a slightly springy camber, which helps stabilize the board at higher speeds and on hard snow, and also makes it easier to turn.
Contact Points - The points at which the board contacts the snow with out the pressure of the rider being displaced on the board. This is also called the board’s wheel base. The contact points can be found by placing the board on a smooth, flat surface then slide a piece of paper under the center of the snowboard, slide it toward the nose or tail until it stops.
Effective Edge - The length of metal edge on the snowboard which touches the snow; it is the effective part which is used to make a turn. Therefore, it does not include the edge of the tip and tail. The effective edge is in contact with the snow when the board is in a carved turn. A longer effective edge makes for a more stable, controlled ride; a shorter effective edge makes for a looser, easier turning board.
Flex Point - The flex point is located between the two bindings and is the point where the board begins or ends its flex and allows for sidecut radius contact.
Nose - The front end of the snowboard, specifically the tip.
Nose Length - length of board from the widest part of the boards nose to the tip of the nose.
Nose Width - the widest part of the board measured across the front tip or nose area of the board.
Overall Length - Measured from the tip of the board to the tail, usually referred to in Centimeters (cm).
Sidecut Radius - This is the measurement of how deeply or shallowly the board’s cut is from the nose of the board to the waist (or middle of the board). This is what helps the board turn. The smaller the sidecut radius the tighter you will be able to turn. A board with a larger sidecut will make big arching turns. It is the radius of a circle that makes the hourglass shape of the snowboard and thus how it is defined and measured. It works in conjunction with the running length of the snowboard.
Tail - the rear tip of the snowboard.
Tail Length - length of board from the widest part of the board’s tail to the tip of the tail.
Tail Width - the widest part of the board measured across the tails tip or tail area of the board.
Top - Opposite of the base, top of the board is where the bindings are mounted and the rider stands.
Waist Width - The narrowest point of the board. This is usually the middle of the sidecut, located between the bindings. Waist width of a board should be relative to the size of your feet. Boards with narrow waist width are quicker from edge to edge, but if your feet are size 11 or more you will most likely have to get a wider board.